When we got to the gate of the park we learned that the huge bus called the Rhino, which hauls all of our gear, broke down and that it was now a mystery where we would sleep that evening as it would not make it back in time to set up before dark. So plans quickly changed, and on the spur of the moment we were to embark on our first Serengeti game drive while it was being decided where we should spend the night. The landscape of this park is enormously different than the previous parks, as Serengeti is so expansive that in any direction it seemed as though the grass would never end. Our first expedition took us to a pride of female lions basking on boulder formations with a cub poking it's head out from the highest point. Then a serval sprinted out in front of the rover and dove into the tall grassland. Only a few kilometers from here, 3 female lions where lying right beside the road taking their afternoon nap before the hunt that evening. As we headed back towards our camp site the animals were just beginning to jump into full gear for the nights activities.
Technically Illegal...
Upon retiring to camp we discovered we would be sleeping in a youth hostel that evening and eat at a restaurant the locals eat at - but that we would have no access to our bags as they were still stuck with the Rhino. The food was delicious as they piled our plates full of rice, chicken and cabbage. As I walked outside I had to sit and breathe for a moment as the sky was full of stars as far as the horizon and one could trace the milky way from border to border. We piled in the cars and as we turned on the head lights there was an enormous surprise: a full grown hippo was walking right through the grounds of the restaurant! These massive animals cause more human deaths than any other African mammal- so as you can imagine, there was quite an up roar. It seemed to be causing no harm, however. We made it to the hostel and found our way to our massive dorm which was full of bunk beds for everyone and made beds with jackets and shukas. I wasn't asleep for long when suddenly African music was blaring through the dorm. Everyone woke with a start and a few brave students ventured to see who was causing the rukus at 4 am. As it turned out several women were doing their morning prayers with worship music, a tradition that we became keenly aware of in this moment. After a few more hours of restless sleep, we made our way to the camp grounds to set up tents and help the kitchen staff cook breakfast. We were then assigned to make giraffe and elephant observations for the next two hours. This was actually quite fun as we were able to view them long enough to find distinguishing features and name them - which helped us discover who they were for the next three days.
One of the many lakes
After this we were given free reign for a game drive, which brought us to some of the most amazing sights I have ever seen. After a herd of over 40 elephants, we came across a gathering of vehicles which were viewing a male lion off in the distance. Not only this, but he was currently mating a female every 20 or so minutes - as is common for this species. This is a sight few people have been lucky enough to witness. After this, we were driving off into dusk and came across the animal I have been most excited to see: the endangered leopard! She was crawling through the high grass, seemingly stocking our car- and then walked right in front of us and beneath the car ahead! I have never seen a more majestic creature. Shortly after this, we were blessed with the sighting of a second leopard nearby who was sneaking off into the pinks and purples spread across the sky at sunset. Even though we had to head back to camp, this was hardly the end of the excitement of the day. After diner we soon discovered a few hyenas prowling the borders of our camp- hoping to get their paws on something tasty. When we went to our tents we could hear a few of them fighting and howling just meters away. Lucky for us, we had our guard Bura who has no fear is bashing these creatures away from the tents (he literally has a stick he bashes them with). The next morning a few students reported that they had seen buffalo and lions outside of the bathroom! Quite the night. 
First Leopard
The next day were went on a bird watching exercise, which was going to test my new found detective hobby of bird identification. We saw many beautiful and unique species, but at the end of our transect we were at the hippo pool where it was filled with ibises, storks, Egyptian geese and ducks. Then an enormous female lion appeared out of no where and walked right next to our car! She was no more than 5 meters away. This was the closet I have ever been to an animal so powerful and dangerous. We continued on and were able to spot 4 more leopards and then at the very end, a female leopard with an infant hiding in the grass behind. I can't begin to express my excitement and elation at such a rare sight. We traveled back with buffalo roaming near the roads and hyenas stretching in preparation for the hunt. That night we had more visitors with Bura reporting that he had "bash bash" the hyena. I laugh every time he tells me.
Hippo Pool with a crocodile floating in it
Love birds - parrots!
The next morning we got to go on game drive again and we saw a pride of lions next to a Buffalo carcass with hyenas waiting to devour the remains. We also saw an infant hippo trampling behind it's mother! Other groups saw a liter of cheetah cubs, which I was bummed to have missed. But then I remembered everything I did see, and there was no way I could even have a minute of regret. We got to stop at a spot with over 100 hippos with several young ones popping their ears out of the mud. Quite the sight - and even more the smell.
Hyrax sitting at the table with me
Elephant Rain Parade
We ended the day with an interesting sight. Tanzania national park rangers were off roading and throwing rocks at several large baboons that were near the tree the leopard baby was under the day before. We found out that the baboons were trying to kill the cub and that the rangers were teaching them a lesson to leave it alone. One of the baboons died. The mother and cub were hiding safe in a fallen tree near by. This issue is complex because the leopards should not learn to depend on humans for protection, but leopards are endangered enough that a cub's death would be detrimental to the species. It becomes an intricate issue of how much human involvement is too far...
Africa Eagle on top of a dead Hyena
It was a bittersweet night at the campfire as we knew it was one of our last nights with the staff there. Our policy teacher, Mwanhanga, had us all stand and hold hands and tell our friends on either side that they were our best friend. I definitely shed a few tears. On our way out we were able to enjoy a small pride of female lions with their cubs crawling over one another only a few meters away - a sight I will not soon forget.
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